Local Traditions

We normally start our days with a breakfast of bananas, some grapefruit, and black coffee (there is no fridge or freezer onboard Waimanu so milk is not a daily item for us). The bananas we normally have raw but we sometimes fry them in cinnamon to change things up a bit.

A normal breakfast

The hospital people put on a thank you dinner, with French red wine! We were also given beautifully handcrafted carry baskets. These are beautiful, handmade, plant woven basket like bags that are oh so incredibly useful!

So now we have more than one, which reminds me of our time back at Loltong, Pentecost where we received our first one. We unintentionally found ourselves in the middle of Day 50 while there. When someone dies there is a set time for mourning that lasts 100 days. A feast is had on Day 50 and again on Day 100. During this period, the widow spends a lot of time in the nakamal while others visit.

Inside the Nakamal

nakamal is a traditional meeting place that in northern and central Vanuatu usually takes it’s form as a hut assembled using nearby materials and built by the entire local community (in southern Vanuatu it is more often a large, sheltered outdoor space such as under a banyan tree).

When we arrived, they were most insistent that we join in with their feasting. As we were the furtherest traveled we were given food first. We were also given a bag of food in one of these traditional basket type bags.

It was fascinating and touching to be able to participate.

Busy Lolowai

It has been so busy here in Lolowai, we haven’t been updating everyone quite so much.

Jenny has been throwing herself into writing and has found a lovely spot on the deck of a tiny wee cafe that is situated to catch the breeze. It has been going quite slowly though, as there are many interruptions with the guys (new friends of Phil’s) coming down for morning tea and chatty visitors turning up for lunch. The cafe is run by a local named Fred and is positioned with a great outlook, which was useful to observe a bunch of the village guys unloading a small freighter that recently came in, by means of a longboat and a human chain.

Meanwhile, Phil has been flat out with a number of building projects. He has fixed plumbing and installed new stainless medical benches. He has also redone some spouting and downpipe systems connecting to water tanks. This included repairing a cement tank built by NZ Armed Forces in 1994.

There are two large yachts in the bay at the moment, one from Australia and the other from Germany. We had sundowner drinks onboard the Australians boat from 5pm until 8.30pm. They have a quality French wine onboard which we are discovering is quite normal in Vanuatu.

Onboard our home (back in Vila) – Photo @Jenny vdM

 

Lolowai Hospital

Phil has been itching to get to Lolowai since leaving NZ. We know a Kiwi couple who are retired and have been involved (aloing with a number of others) in upgrading the hospital here, a project between the NZ and Bundaburg Rotary club. As is the norm, the hospital is not big at all (having approx. seven beds and covering a broad number of health malidies for every age group). Our friend Sam (one half of the aforementioned Kiwi couple) gave us a tour of the place when we first got her before Phil happily launched himself into ditch digging and plumbing jobs. We then had lunch with the building team at Torgil in the tech training centre. Also: showers (make the most of them wherever you can).

Lolowai is the perfect anchorage and is the top of an underwater volcano, the crater of which creates a lovely sheltered bay.

We’re likely to stop here for a few days and do some work around the place (it is always useful having building skills). We are both loving this lifestyle and are getting more and more tanned by the day.

 

Hidden Yachtie Havens

Once you get into the Islands, you discover lots of little spots that only locals and yachties get to. These are gorgeous wee gems with a laid back culture that offer laughs and new friends, a slice of home (sometimes) and a good bit of humour.

We found this latest one at Asanvari, a small bay at the bottom of the island of Maewo. There is a nice little waterfall in one corner with a part time bar that is open when there are no village occasions happening and enough yachts in the bay (just your normal opening hours). A lovely fresh water wash shower was had after enjoying a stunning wind-less day.

Jenny still had the dregs of a headache (it can take awhile to adjust to a different set of climate and weather patterns and the heat is getting to her a little bit, although she’s nearly acclimatised). Because of this we didn’t attend the birthday party of a local ashore that our neighbouring Norwegians had invited us. However, we could hear the happenings from home and wondered what the other visiting yachites would be thinking of the hymn singing that was happening (quite a normal part of a birthday party up here) along with four versus of the Happy Birthday song that were each sung in a slightly different tune.

Local Village – Photo @anita.vdm

Life in General

 

This is what quite a “normal” day looks like now:

Morning:

While anchored in another stunning spot (Loltong Bay, 15°32’42.84S, 168°08’56.64E) Phil did a bit of general engine maintenance while Jenny puttered around the boat. We worked in companionable quiet while listening to the birdsong from ashore and the laughter coming from our chattering neighbours. We also watched a ship unload supplies.

Afternoon:

A spot of swimming and watching the local kids having a ride in a longboat dugout with the local fishermen and then we’re off ashore.

 

In short, life is good and you have to make the most of the adventure it is (or can be).

Sunset – Photo @phil.vdm

Yummy Rain

We sailed from Home Bay up to Waterfall Village on our next leg and boy did it rain!

It is currently what is known as the “Dry Season” at this time of year although perhaps a more apt name would be the more-common-to-have-few-cyclones season. (Dry Season is NZ winter, traversing April through to October while Wet Season, or Hurricane Season, or Cyclone Season usually happens from November to March, usually being the operative word) It was nice to have a bit of a cool down, though, as even when you are jumping in for a swim the water tends to be a lukewarm temperature. Not only refreshing, it also topped up our water tank with Phil emptying two full 10 litre water buckets just from what we collected using our sun awning. There is nothing quite like fresh rain water.

We also headed ashore to have a bit of an explore, walking up to the Ranwadi school. Ranwadi takes students right the way through, from 5 years old to 18 years old. For the local villages, it can be a bit of a walk (depending on how far away the students live) but it also has dorms for both boys and girls, catering to those who are just a bit too far away. When Anita came up here in 2007/2008 it was their summer holidays so she and her friends lived on site while working on upkeep and maintenance jobs. It is a special place.

A Year 13 student (17 or 18 years old and in his last year of school before he becomes University/tertiary/collage age) did a good job showing us around as the staff were in a meeting.

The next day we visited the Waterfall Village where we tracked down a local girl Anita used to spend a lot of time with while here and wrote letters to for a number of years. She now has her own girl pikinini (child) who is a year old.

Jenny had a serious headache by this afternoon so we watched the UK version of the movie Death at a Funeral to have a good laugh.

Ranwadi Rain – Photo @anita.vdm

Trade Winds

Land Diving – Photo @anita.vdm

The crossing from Ambrym to Pentecost was a bit wild with guusts of up to 35kts. Just a little windier than anticipated… We spent the night anchored in Home Bay on the southern end of the island. This was also the spot cruise shops anchor off and home of the seasonal and infamous Land Diving (the original bungee jump).

Phil has also been learning how to trade, swapping a big bunch of small eating bananas (they taste much better than the ones in NZ) and four huge pampelmouss (grapefruit) for an old tee shirt and a pair of trousers.

Home Bay, Pentecost – Photo @anita.vdm

Ambrym the Volcano

Vanuatu has been a favourite in our family for many years. We sailed back from here to NZ in the 80s on some yacht delivery trips as well as visiting on cruise ships more recently. The love we have for this place has been passed on to our kids, our daughter having come here in 2007 to live on one of the outer islands for a month doing some building upkeep work on a local school.

On her way to Pentecost, she flew over the volcano island that is Ambrym. Her descriptions of seeing  the contrasted sleeping volcano covered in growth right next to a very active one with lava seeping out came across as somewhat story book but stunning in a wild way (the pilot of the 20 seater plane she was on even did a couple of loops around to really show it off) .

On Friday we anchored on the far western coastline of Ambrym and watched this gracious but raw beauty from a different perspective. 

There was a slight roll for our anchorage of the night in Craig Cove (16°15’20.34S, 167°55’14.64E) where we shared the bay with a small, coastal, inter-island freighter and a barge so we moved on the following day. Our next stop between Ranvetlam and Ranon (16°9’06.42S, 168°6’32.16E) was a lovely flat sea with a black sand setting and a gentle cooling breeze. It made up for the gusty sail from our previous spot.

Sleeping Volcano: One of Ambrym’s – Photo @anita.vdm

Being Social

We anchored in Lameh Bay, Epi (16°35’52.86S, 168°9’51.84E) and went about introducing ourselves to our neighbours for the night.

It wasn’t long until we were sipping wine with our new Canadian friends.

Today also marked the first day Jenny went for a swim. She doesn’t swim in NZ (too cold for her liking) but swimming in the tropics certainly has its appeal. Just be aware that it is not necessarily refreshing, often feeling more like jumping into a tepid bath.

We had dinner back at home (onboard Waimanu) and it was quite the eclectic mix. Black beans in a mole poblano sauce with fried onions (Phil will have fried onions in absolutely everything savoury if at all possible) and local “beans”. These “beans” grow on a plant that has flowers similar to climbing beans but the vegetable is more like a cucumber or zucchini (it smells like cucumber).

Still no internet connection so here is a photo from our Efate exploration.

Local’s swimming spot

Heading North

From Port Havannah, Efate we have been heading north, island hopping as we go. Internet is basically non-existent (so no photos yet) and we have been texting the Kids when we find cell reception.

While NZ is battling temperatures of 4 degrees (in the northern North Island!! So much for sub-tropical), we have been trying to adjust to temperatures of high 20s at only 0700. Needless to say at least one offspring is jealous…

Sulua Bay, Emae Island was next up where we hoped a breeze will cool us. We had a fantastic sail up with a steady 20-25 knots over the starboard quarter but accompanied by quite a large swell.

And now we are sitting at anchor, wind humming in the rig with Phil ashore looking for locals to talk to (he just loves people!).