An Inside Look: Part One

So what does it really look like to the outside world, this lifestyle of ours?

Our daughter, Anita , popped up to Vanuatu for a week’s holiday to come and investigate and truly get a feel for what life on a small yacht in the South Pacific is like.

Phil and Jenny had spent the week and a bit leading up to her arrival investigate the local lay of the land so that we could utilise our time together to the max.

The taxi dropped her off at the resort we were anchored in front of so we made the most of their restaurant and excellent steak (we live a mostly vegetarian life onboard Waimanu as she doesn’t have a fridge onboard).

Groceries – photo @thewildlifeofme

After stocking up on fresh fruit and veg from the local markets the following day, we headed off to Palikulo Bay. The Japanese fish factory there had closed down in the 80s and has basically been ignored ever since. With a flat calm anchorage and some interesting ruins alongside the shipwreck, it is a great spot. Donning snorkeling gear, Phil and Anita jumped into the crystal clear blue water for a swim and looking around while Jenny bobbed along in Zoe taking pictures of the rusted glory that is the wreck.

Palikulo Bay – photo @thewildlifeofme

The next day we sailed our way across to a cute little anchorage that has the remnants of a western structure but is otherwise deserted. It is the epitome of a tropical island paradise with no footprints on the beach, the roar of the surf on the other side of the island’s point, and deep, amazingly clear water kissing white, sandy stretches before jungle takes over.

Paradise – photo @thewildlifeofme

After enjoying the serenity of this gorgeous spot for a few hours we headed up to to inside of Malwepe Island. Oyster Island Resort is on the end of this island but is currently closed down as they rebuild it but it is one of the most sheltered anchorages we have ever come across, sheltered on all sides. The most nerve-wracking part of staying here is getting in through a channel that is only 2.3 meters deep at full tide. It certainly is a spectacular entry and is within a short Zoe ride to some of the famous blue holes.

That’s shallow! – photo @thewildlifeofme

 

Luganville Harbour Hangouts

Our cooking skills using what we have (long term foods and bursts of fresh produce that is locally grown so often rather different from “normal” in NZ) are greatly improving. Phil makes good Aloo Methi especially for not having chili and using dried parsley instead of fresh.

After our turbulent crossing, we anchored inside Tutuba Island at the entrance of Luganville Harbour for a flat, calm and peaceful night. Then we were off to Beachfront Resort which is across from Sarakata River from town.

It was Vanuatu’s Independence Day on the 30th July so it made town quite an interesting place to be. At times quiet and other times very busy but not quite as predictable as normal.

The next couple of days we anchored off Beachfront Resort and two out of three days we made the 3km return walk into Luganville itself to catch up on things. It was good to stock up on groceries and have a bit of lunch at a local cafe to also check in on the world in general. We also topped up the fuel and water tanks and started a few loads of laundry. We also spent a good bit of time chatting to a young fella in his 20s. He was a BK (boat kid) and had grown up cruising on a yacht, now continuing the lifestyle himself.

Motoring back to Tutubua Island, we enjoyed the small sandy bay at the western end and anchored just on dark. One thing we have enjoyed doing is visiting the various resorts in the area for a drink at their bar. It’s a good place to catch up on news and enjoy something a bit different.

Days are warm up here and you will often find Jenny sitting in the cabin before 9am, alternating between reading her book and watching the thermometer steadily passing 27°C.

After finishing up a few more errands back in Luganville, we headed up the coast and anchored on the eastern side of Palikulo Bay, northeast of Luganville. There are old rusty remnants of a ship here along with the decaying structure of a fish factory it’s wharf with some very inviting photos. We spent the day doing some jobs on the boat with Phil sanding and applying Sikkens.

Temperature Gage – our normal

Onwards and Across

We bought fresh mandarins at the market which consisted of a bunch of ladies under the big mango tree at the hospital entrance. There was a barge that had unloaded goods the night before when it arrived at 2100 and left in the morning at 0700 so it was good to stock on fresh things. As we had run out of work, by Friday lunchtime we set off on our next adventure armed with our fresh fruit. It was exactly a week after dropping anchor in Lolowai. Early on Saturday morning, we slipped down the coast on the full tide. In the wind shadow of the mountain we motored on flat water.

Fresh fruit!

Discovering a secluded little inlet down the coast in the later that morning after only a passing mention from some yachtie a long time ago we thought to check if out. Think Rangitoto coastline with a little dent. We anchored in Dixon Bay (15°19’29.58S, 167°48’17.16E) to the delighted audience of giggling kids watching from the rocky bluff. A local fishing boat came in to assure us anchoring there was safe although there wasn’t any wind anyway. We were the first boat to stop so far this year and they only get 3 or 4 in an annum.

 

Dixon Bay village kids

There was a cut away in the rock and a concrete ramp smaller than a driveway. This we lifted Zoe onto. (Zoe is the zodiac and our little runabout dinghy) We had rowed in rather than getting the outboard set up which made things a little easier.

The young local chief met us and showed us around the very small village. Phil asked if they had any elderly and was introduced to one man. We asked for fresh fruit and the kids disappeared while we did a sight test with him. He needed strong reading glasses. The kids returned with a load of island sweet grapefruit. We shared some out and traded some to take home to Waimanu. Back at the boat ramp the kids started swimming and Phil joined them. The water is over 27°C! Phil and the kids all jumped in from a high rocky outcrop. It takes some pluck, that’s for sure.

Anchored in rocky Dixon Bay

Wanting to shorten the voyage to Santo as much as we could, we carried on along the North West coast of Ambae. We found an anchorage of sorts off a steep boulder beach named Loone Lakua (15°21’37.02S, 167°45’42.72E) and with the dinghy anchor astern, we pointed to the slight swell and enjoyed a quiet night, watching some more of Colditz, a 1970s BBC TV series about the POW camp that we are now halfway through.

Being Social

We anchored in Lameh Bay, Epi (16°35’52.86S, 168°9’51.84E) and went about introducing ourselves to our neighbours for the night.

It wasn’t long until we were sipping wine with our new Canadian friends.

Today also marked the first day Jenny went for a swim. She doesn’t swim in NZ (too cold for her liking) but swimming in the tropics certainly has its appeal. Just be aware that it is not necessarily refreshing, often feeling more like jumping into a tepid bath.

We had dinner back at home (onboard Waimanu) and it was quite the eclectic mix. Black beans in a mole poblano sauce with fried onions (Phil will have fried onions in absolutely everything savoury if at all possible) and local “beans”. These “beans” grow on a plant that has flowers similar to climbing beans but the vegetable is more like a cucumber or zucchini (it smells like cucumber).

Still no internet connection so here is a photo from our Efate exploration.

Local’s swimming spot