Luganville Archives - Adventures with ThevdMz

September 4, 2017

An Inside Look: Part One

So what does it really look like to the outside world, this lifestyle of ours?

Our daughter, Anita , popped up to Vanuatu for a week’s holiday to come and investigate and truly get a feel for what life on a small yacht in the South Pacific is like.

Phil and Jenny had spent the week and a bit leading up to her arrival investigate the local lay of the land so that we could utilise our time together to the max.

The taxi dropped her off at the resort we were anchored in front of so we made the most of their restaurant and excellent steak (we live a mostly vegetarian life onboard Waimanu as she doesn’t have a fridge onboard).

After stocking up on fresh fruit and veg from the local markets the following day, we headed off to Palikulo Bay. The Japanese fish factory there had closed down in the 80s and has basically been ignored ever since. With a flat calm anchorage and some interesting ruins alongside the shipwreck, it is a great spot. Donning snorkeling gear, Phil and Anita jumped into the crystal clear blue water for a swim and looking around while Jenny bobbed along in Zoe taking pictures of the rusted glory that is the wreck.

The next day we sailed our way across to a cute little anchorage that has the remnants of a western structure but is otherwise deserted. It is the epitome of a tropical island paradise with no footprints on the beach, the roar of the surf on the other side of the island’s point, and deep, amazingly clear water kissing white, sandy stretches before jungle takes over.

After enjoying the serenity of this gorgeous spot for a few hours we headed up to to inside of Malwepe Island. Oyster Island Resort is on the end of this island but is currently closed down as they rebuild it but it is one of the most sheltered anchorages we have ever come across, sheltered on all sides. The most nerve-wracking part of staying here is getting in through a channel that is only 2.3 meters deep at full tide. It certainly is a spectacular entry and is within a short Zoe ride to some of the famous blue holes.

That’s shallow! – photo @thewildlifeofme

August 9, 2017

Luganville Harbour Hangouts

Our cooking skills using what we have (long term foods and bursts of fresh produce that is locally grown so often rather different from “normal” in NZ) are greatly improving. Phil makes good Aloo Methi especially for not having chili and using dried parsley instead of fresh.

After our turbulent crossing, we anchored inside Tutuba Island at the entrance of Luganville Harbour for a flat, calm and peaceful night. Then we were off to Beachfront Resort which is across from Sarakata River from town.

It was Vanuatu’s Independence Day on the 30th July so it made town quite an interesting place to be. At times quiet and other times very busy but not quite as predictable as normal.

The next couple of days we anchored off Beachfront Resort and two out of three days we made the 3km return walk into Luganville itself to catch up on things. It was good to stock up on groceries and have a bit of lunch at a local cafe to also check in on the world in general. We also topped up the fuel and water tanks and started a few loads of laundry. We also spent a good bit of time chatting to a young fella in his 20s. He was a BK (boat kid) and had grown up cruising on a yacht, now continuing the lifestyle himself.

Motoring back to Tutubua Island, we enjoyed the small sandy bay at the western end and anchored just on dark. One thing we have enjoyed doing is visiting the various resorts in the area for a drink at their bar. It’s a good place to catch up on news and enjoy something a bit different.

Days are warm up here and you will often find Jenny sitting in the cabin before 9am, alternating between reading her book and watching the thermometer steadily passing 27°C.

After finishing up a few more errands back in Luganville, we headed up the coast and anchored on the eastern side of Palikulo Bay, northeast of Luganville. There are old rusty remnants of a ship here along with the decaying structure of a fish factory it’s wharf with some very inviting photos. We spent the day doing some jobs on the boat with Phil sanding and applying Sikkens.

Temperature Gage – our normal

August 6, 2017

A Very Windy Calm

It looked so calm and still for our next leg travelling from Ambae to Luganville, Espiritu Santo (locally known as just Santo and the largest island in Vanuatu) that we left the big sun awning up all night. The next morning we motored away with it still up. But as we neared the end of the island we could see the effects of wind, plenty of wind. So down awning and up sails it was for a beam reach across.

It was a bit choppy at first then regulating to a more even ocean swell. Between islands here it is open ocean, sometimes exacerbated by strong currents so the seas can be big and steep. We were clipping along at 8-9 knots, with a top speed of 11.8 knots. The wind kept increasing to a steady 25 gusting up to 38 knots.

Jenny was sitting on stern seat and trying to stay dry while Phil was hand steering (instead of using the self steering gear) and trying to keep her dry. Of course the inevitable happened and we caught a huge wave side on which resulted in both of us soaked to the skin. These waves were as big as Phil had seen since leaving NZ! While he wasn’t very popular with Jenny he was forgiven. It helps that the water up here is so warm.

We reefed down as we were now in a steady 30-35kts although Waimanu handles so well! We altered course for safer option and came in under the lee of an island at the entrance of the channel to Luganville Harbour.

Anchoring just before lunch we had covered 33 nautical miles in just over 4 hours.