An Inside Look: Part Two

Phil and Anita headed off the next morning to check out one of the local Blue Holes. We headed up the river in Zoe, skimming over the shallows (and at one point wading the boat through as we were just short of high tide) passing under the bridge and enjoying the surrounding jungle until we popped out into the Hole.

Jungle – Photo @thewildlifeofme

The Blue Holes are fresh water springs that bubble up to the surface but bring lots of natural minerals with them, causing a rather amazing colour. One of the local villages has the entrepreneurial insight to set up some shade shelters, seats, steps and a swing and then charge visitors to utilise the natural fresh water swimming hole. We explained to the chap on watch all we were doing was having an explore. He wasn’t too happy as it meant he was missing out on a bit of income so we came him a rather small amount and headed back down river. 

Riri Blue Hole – Photo @thewildlifeofme

That afternoon we headed off back down to Palikulo Bay, this time anchoring next to a different wreck, said to be Vanuatu’s first tug. With a mirror-like quality to the water, it was perfect for taking artistic photos of reflected rust while listening to the shrieks of laughing coming from the local village kids having an evening dip.

Wreck of the Tug – Photo @thewildlifeofme

The following morning we swept around the point and out into the ocean wind to head further down the coast, anchoring off of Ratua Island Resort. The channel between the islands of Malo and Aore can develop quite interesting wind and tidal patterns and this time was totally different than when Phil and Jenny had first come through, halving the time it took to tack from Bokissa Island through to Ratua Island.

Sailing Away – Photo @thewildlifeofme

The anchorage off of Ratua Island is quite sheltered with a lovely lagoon that is home to a marine sanctuary. This meant that on the Eastern side of the island, turtles use the shallow inlet as a nursery for their young (usually seen in February) while on the deep Western side, the adult turtles (many over a meter across) shyly explore the visiting yachts.

Turtle Sanctuary – Photo @thewildlifeofme

There is a deep channel between Ratua Island and Aore Island, despite being only a couple of dozen meters wide. The current is strong but the water is clear and the sea life is incredible. Phil and Anita gave Zoe a bit of a rub down before donning mask and snorkel and drifting back down the channel with camera in hand and muffled exclamations bursting out in the form of bubbles. The perfect end to another stunning day.

Another Perfect Day – Photo @thewildlifeofme

An Inside Look: Part One

So what does it really look like to the outside world, this lifestyle of ours?

Our daughter, Anita , popped up to Vanuatu for a week’s holiday to come and investigate and truly get a feel for what life on a small yacht in the South Pacific is like.

Phil and Jenny had spent the week and a bit leading up to her arrival investigate the local lay of the land so that we could utilise our time together to the max.

The taxi dropped her off at the resort we were anchored in front of so we made the most of their restaurant and excellent steak (we live a mostly vegetarian life onboard Waimanu as she doesn’t have a fridge onboard).

Groceries – photo @thewildlifeofme

After stocking up on fresh fruit and veg from the local markets the following day, we headed off to Palikulo Bay. The Japanese fish factory there had closed down in the 80s and has basically been ignored ever since. With a flat calm anchorage and some interesting ruins alongside the shipwreck, it is a great spot. Donning snorkeling gear, Phil and Anita jumped into the crystal clear blue water for a swim and looking around while Jenny bobbed along in Zoe taking pictures of the rusted glory that is the wreck.

Palikulo Bay – photo @thewildlifeofme

The next day we sailed our way across to a cute little anchorage that has the remnants of a western structure but is otherwise deserted. It is the epitome of a tropical island paradise with no footprints on the beach, the roar of the surf on the other side of the island’s point, and deep, amazingly clear water kissing white, sandy stretches before jungle takes over.

Paradise – photo @thewildlifeofme

After enjoying the serenity of this gorgeous spot for a few hours we headed up to to inside of Malwepe Island. Oyster Island Resort is on the end of this island but is currently closed down as they rebuild it but it is one of the most sheltered anchorages we have ever come across, sheltered on all sides. The most nerve-wracking part of staying here is getting in through a channel that is only 2.3 meters deep at full tide. It certainly is a spectacular entry and is within a short Zoe ride to some of the famous blue holes.

That’s shallow! – photo @thewildlifeofme

 

A Very Windy Calm

It looked so calm and still for our next leg travelling from Ambae to Luganville, Espiritu Santo (locally known as just Santo and the largest island in Vanuatu) that we left the big sun awning up all night. The next morning we motored away with it still up. But as we neared the end of the island we could see the effects of wind, plenty of wind. So down awning and up sails it was for a beam reach across. 

It was a bit choppy at first then regulating to a more even ocean swell. Between islands here it is open ocean, sometimes exacerbated by strong currents so the seas can be big and steep. We were clipping along at 8-9 knots, with a top speed of 11.8 knots. The wind kept increasing to a steady 25 gusting up to 38 knots.

Jenny was sitting on stern seat and trying to stay dry while Phil was hand steering (instead of using the self steering gear) and trying to keep her dry. Of course the inevitable happened and we caught a huge wave side on which resulted in both of us soaked to the skin. These waves were as big as Phil had seen since leaving NZ! While he wasn’t very popular with Jenny he was forgiven. It helps that the water up here is so warm.

We reefed down as we were now in a steady 30-35kts although Waimanu handles so well! We altered course for safer option and came in under the lee of an island at the entrance of the channel to Luganville Harbour.

Anchoring just before lunch we had covered 33 nautical miles in just over 4 hours.

We live under the sun awning!Espiritu Santo