Where in the world are ThevdMz? Previously: Vanuatu, Tonga, Fiji. Currently: EnZed Soon: Europe! Hoping for plenty of internet so we can share lots of lovely photos & maps
While anchored in another stunning spot (Loltong Bay, 15°32’42.84S, 168°08’56.64E) Phil did a bit of general engine maintenance while Jenny puttered around the boat. We worked in companionable quiet while listening to the birdsong from ashore and the laughter coming from our chattering neighbours. We also watched a ship unload supplies.
Afternoon:
A spot of swimming and watching the local kids having a ride in a longboat dugout with the local fishermen and then we’re off ashore.
In short, life is good and you have to make the most of the adventure it is (or can be).
We sailed from Home Bay up to Waterfall Village on our next leg and boy did it rain!
It is currently what is known as the “Dry Season” at this time of year although perhaps a more apt name would be the more-common-to-have-few-cyclones season. (Dry Season is NZ winter, traversing April through to October while Wet Season, or Hurricane Season, or Cyclone Season usually happens from November to March, usually being the operative word) It was nice to have a bit of a cool down, though, as even when you are jumping in for a swim the water tends to be a lukewarm temperature. Not only refreshing, it also topped up our water tank with Phil emptying two full 10 litre water buckets just from what we collected using our sun awning. There is nothing quite like fresh rain water.
We also headed ashore to have a bit of an explore, walking up to the Ranwadi school. Ranwadi takes students right the way through, from 5 years old to 18 years old. For the local villages, it can be a bit of a walk (depending on how far away the students live) but it also has dorms for both boys and girls, catering to those who are just a bit too far away. When Anita came up here in 2007/2008 it was their summer holidays so she and her friends lived on site while working on upkeep and maintenance jobs. It is a special place.
A Year 13 student (17 or 18 years old and in his last year of school before he becomes University/tertiary/collage age) did a good job showing us around as the staff were in a meeting.
The next day we visited the Waterfall Village where we tracked down a local girl Anita used to spend a lot of time with while here and wrote letters to for a number of years. She now has her own girl pikinini (child) who is a year old.
Jenny had a serious headache by this afternoon so we watched the UK version of the movie Death at a Funeral to have a good laugh.
The crossing from Ambrym to Pentecost was a bit wild with guusts of up to 35kts. Just a little windier than anticipated… We spent the night anchored in Home Bay on the southern end of the island. This was also the spot cruise shops anchor off and home of the seasonal and infamous Land Diving (the original bungee jump).
Phil has also been learning how to trade, swapping a big bunch of small eating bananas (they taste much better than the ones in NZ) and four huge pampelmouss (grapefruit) for an old tee shirt and a pair of trousers.
Vanuatu has been a favourite in our family for many years. We sailed back from here to NZ in the 80s on some yacht delivery trips as well as visiting on cruise ships more recently. The love we have for this place has been passed on to our kids, our daughter having come here in 2007 to live on one of the outer islands for a month doing some building upkeep work on a local school.
On her way to Pentecost, she flew over the volcano island that is Ambrym. Her descriptions of seeing the contrasted sleeping volcano covered in growth right next to a very active one with lava seeping out came across as somewhat story book but stunning in a wild way (the pilot of the 20 seater plane she was on even did a couple of loops around to really show it off) .
On Friday we anchored on the far western coastline of Ambrym and watched this gracious but raw beauty from a different perspective.
There was a slight roll for our anchorage of the night in Craig Cove (16°15’20.34S, 167°55’14.64E) where we shared the bay with a small, coastal, inter-island freighter and a barge so we moved on the following day. Our next stop between Ranvetlam and Ranon (16°9’06.42S, 168°6’32.16E) was a lovely flat sea with a black sand setting and a gentle cooling breeze. It made up for the gusty sail from our previous spot.
Sleeping Volcano: One of Ambrym’s – Photo @anita.vdm
We anchored in Lameh Bay, Epi (16°35’52.86S, 168°9’51.84E) and went about introducing ourselves to our neighbours for the night.
It wasn’t long until we were sipping wine with our new Canadian friends.
Today also marked the first day Jenny went for a swim. She doesn’t swim in NZ (too cold for her liking) but swimming in the tropics certainly has its appeal. Just be aware that it is not necessarily refreshing, often feeling more like jumping into a tepid bath.
We had dinner back at home (onboard Waimanu) and it was quite the eclectic mix. Black beans in a mole poblano sauce with fried onions (Phil will have fried onions in absolutely everything savoury if at all possible) and local “beans”. These “beans” grow on a plant that has flowers similar to climbing beans but the vegetable is more like a cucumber or zucchini (it smells like cucumber).
Still no internet connection so here is a photo from our Efate exploration.
From Port Havannah, Efate we have been heading north, island hopping as we go. Internet is basically non-existent (so no photos yet) and we have been texting the Kids when we find cell reception.
While NZ is battling temperatures of 4 degrees (in the northern North Island!! So much for sub-tropical), we have been trying to adjust to temperatures of high 20s at only 0700. Needless to say at least one offspring is jealous…
Sulua Bay, Emae Island was next up where we hoped a breeze will cool us. We had a fantastic sail up with a steady 20-25 knots over the starboard quarter but accompanied by quite a large swell.
And now we are sitting at anchor, wind humming in the rig with Phil ashore looking for locals to talk to (he just loves people!).
After exploring the island of Efate, we were ready to discover the coastline from another perspective. So off we went to Esema Bay, Port Havannah.
We dropped anchor at 1715 and watched the sun go down while listening to the sounds of roosters, song birds, and quiet chatter coming from neighbouring yachts.
A new business opportunity was discovered the next day. Moving moorings! Once upon a time, many moons ago, Jenny and the kids sailed across Kawau Bay to Mansion House. At the conclusion of a day exploring the gardens, we attempted to pick up the anchor and instead discovered the majority of a waterlogged pine tree coming up with it. It was rather a mission involved sailing backwards (the engine had cut out and wouldn’t restart. Don’t worry, it is all fixed now), a few shaky moments, and a lot of cheering from other yachties. Back in Esema Bay, we went to look at a huge ketch that Cyclone Pam had brought ashore. When it was time to leave we got our anchor part way up and figured there was a tree on it. Now quite experienced at this, we slowly dragged it towards our anchorage, hoping we wouldn’t need a diver in the morning. Trying again it let go……leaving a very encrusted mooring buoy in our wake!
Friday was spent visiting the neighbouring ship, Pacific Hope. As part of the Mercy Ships, she works in the Islands performing minor eye and dental operations with a major outcome (removing cataracts is a small operation but when you’re basically blind, it is life changing). The work they do is both awe inspiring and fantastic but a great reality check.
One of Pacific Hope’s operating theaters
Once all of the inter-island permits and customs regulations were cleared up plus Vanuatu sim cards purchased, Phil decided it would be a fantastic idea to hire a car for the day and explore the island of Efate (Port Vila is located on this island).
Roadtrip!
By 0830, it was already sweating hot. Co-ordinated pink was Jenny’s colour of the day dressed as unintentionally touristy as possible as the remedy was still being made by a lovely local lady.
Enjoying a cool breeze
Having been a French territory, Vanuatu still drives on the right-hand side of the road (as Kiwis, we’re used to driving on the left). While Phil has lots of experience at driving on both sides having spent eight months living in a camper van and driving around mainland Europe in the ’90s, it has been some time since he had the practice. This meant Jenny regularly felt like the ditch was just a little too close for comfort.
Coral backroads
Exploring coral backroads and enjoying stunning views, we had lunch at Le Life Resort (on the opposite side of the island to Port Vila) and found the Blue Lagoon that afternoon. If only we had discovered it earlier in the day!
Blue Lagoon
Temping as it was to go for a swim, it was getting rather late and being a lot closer to the equator than NZ, dusk was looming so home we headed.
View from our place (with Pacific Hope in the distance)
