A Very Windy Calm

It looked so calm and still for our next leg travelling from Ambae to Luganville, Espiritu Santo (locally known as just Santo and the largest island in Vanuatu) that we left the big sun awning up all night. The next morning we motored away with it still up. But as we neared the end of the island we could see the effects of wind, plenty of wind. So down awning and up sails it was for a beam reach across. 

It was a bit choppy at first then regulating to a more even ocean swell. Between islands here it is open ocean, sometimes exacerbated by strong currents so the seas can be big and steep. We were clipping along at 8-9 knots, with a top speed of 11.8 knots. The wind kept increasing to a steady 25 gusting up to 38 knots.

Jenny was sitting on stern seat and trying to stay dry while Phil was hand steering (instead of using the self steering gear) and trying to keep her dry. Of course the inevitable happened and we caught a huge wave side on which resulted in both of us soaked to the skin. These waves were as big as Phil had seen since leaving NZ! While he wasn’t very popular with Jenny he was forgiven. It helps that the water up here is so warm.

We reefed down as we were now in a steady 30-35kts although Waimanu handles so well! We altered course for safer option and came in under the lee of an island at the entrance of the channel to Luganville Harbour.

Anchoring just before lunch we had covered 33 nautical miles in just over 4 hours.

We live under the sun awning!Espiritu Santo

Onwards and Across

We bought fresh mandarins at the market which consisted of a bunch of ladies under the big mango tree at the hospital entrance. There was a barge that had unloaded goods the night before when it arrived at 2100 and left in the morning at 0700 so it was good to stock on fresh things. As we had run out of work, by Friday lunchtime we set off on our next adventure armed with our fresh fruit. It was exactly a week after dropping anchor in Lolowai. Early on Saturday morning, we slipped down the coast on the full tide. In the wind shadow of the mountain we motored on flat water.

Fresh fruit!

Discovering a secluded little inlet down the coast in the later that morning after only a passing mention from some yachtie a long time ago we thought to check if out. Think Rangitoto coastline with a little dent. We anchored in Dixon Bay (15°19’29.58S, 167°48’17.16E) to the delighted audience of giggling kids watching from the rocky bluff. A local fishing boat came in to assure us anchoring there was safe although there wasn’t any wind anyway. We were the first boat to stop so far this year and they only get 3 or 4 in an annum.

 

Dixon Bay village kids

There was a cut away in the rock and a concrete ramp smaller than a driveway. This we lifted Zoe onto. (Zoe is the zodiac and our little runabout dinghy) We had rowed in rather than getting the outboard set up which made things a little easier.

The young local chief met us and showed us around the very small village. Phil asked if they had any elderly and was introduced to one man. We asked for fresh fruit and the kids disappeared while we did a sight test with him. He needed strong reading glasses. The kids returned with a load of island sweet grapefruit. We shared some out and traded some to take home to Waimanu. Back at the boat ramp the kids started swimming and Phil joined them. The water is over 27°C! Phil and the kids all jumped in from a high rocky outcrop. It takes some pluck, that’s for sure.

Anchored in rocky Dixon Bay

Wanting to shorten the voyage to Santo as much as we could, we carried on along the North West coast of Ambae. We found an anchorage of sorts off a steep boulder beach named Loone Lakua (15°21’37.02S, 167°45’42.72E) and with the dinghy anchor astern, we pointed to the slight swell and enjoyed a quiet night, watching some more of Colditz, a 1970s BBC TV series about the POW camp that we are now halfway through.

Heading North

From Port Havannah, Efate we have been heading north, island hopping as we go. Internet is basically non-existent (so no photos yet) and we have been texting the Kids when we find cell reception.

While NZ is battling temperatures of 4 degrees (in the northern North Island!! So much for sub-tropical), we have been trying to adjust to temperatures of high 20s at only 0700. Needless to say at least one offspring is jealous…

Sulua Bay, Emae Island was next up where we hoped a breeze will cool us. We had a fantastic sail up with a steady 20-25 knots over the starboard quarter but accompanied by quite a large swell.

And now we are sitting at anchor, wind humming in the rig with Phil ashore looking for locals to talk to (he just loves people!).

 

Internet Means Photos

An inside look into a solo ocean crossing

 

Ocean Sailing
Ocean Sailing

 

Best Sails
Best Sails

 

Gull-Winging It
Gull-Winging It

 

Crew
Crew at work (self steering gear)

 

Salty Selfie
Salty Selfie

 

Land Ahoy!
Land Ahoy!

 

Flags up in Vila
Flags up in Vila

 

  • All photos copyright Phil van der Mespel

Now where did I put that thing?

Friday 1:49 p.m.
Anti Malarial taken! They were with the new plastic boxes. Go Figure. Loving this!

Friday 2:25 p.m.
Also maybe 100mm of S/S 20mm dia tube to make spacers. WW Sheetmetals or sim. Having FUN.

Saturday 11:56 a.m.
S223538 E1681885 COG000T SOG4/5 LOG1010nm Flights are good. S/S tube can be 25mm dia. Motored all night just got sail out now. You been busy! Loads of music!

I’ve been asking Phil to take his first anti-malarial tablet but had no response about it… I should have realised it was because he hadn’t found them yet 🙂

Gear awaiting storage in Waimanu
Gear yet to be stowed – 2015 trip

By the time he left a week ago the gear for this trip was well and truly stowed, unlike this from  a couple of years ago. But there was no less stuff aboard, so you see why the anti-malarials weren’t easy to find.

Looking at the latest update he has 540km or 290 nautical miles to go

When you’re on a boat there are things you need to fix, like you need to change a lightbulb etc at home, but you also figure out small improvements to things you are using all the time. Usually we are sailing around parts of the Northland coastline and the Hauraki Gulf, so it is relatively easy to pick up anything you need. Popping down to the shop isn’t as effective when you’re 500 miles from land, which means I’m now gathering a list of extras to fit into my luggage before Tuesday.

Yes Tuesday! I’ll be flying out around midnight on Tuesday/Wednesday. Wow… that’s soon!!! Anita has booked my tickets and I’m now sorting those little bits and pieces to take up.

When is an apple not an apple?

Argh!

Trying to compare mobile plans in Vanuatu: TVL vs Digicel

It’s like Apples vs What-mood-is-your-elephant-dancing to?

Ah… I dunno… pass… I’ll have the sports, no the arts question please!

So does anyone have a good website for comparing mobile phone plans in a specific country? I’d love to hear it if you do.

 

In other news: Phil is now north east of Norfolk, the weather is cooperating and he’s having a fine time.

I’m imagining that the inside of Waimanu will be looking similar to this picture from Phil’s around the North Island sail, although probably on the other tack

I’m certainly starting to envy the warmth I’m certain he’s experiencing that we aren’t 🙂

Has anyone told you that you are wonderful people?

By midday today Phil was enjoying some sailing after 21 hours motoring.
Then he added to the picture with letting us know the menu: Beans ‘n onions for lunch. Accompanied by Pink Floyd on the stereo.

Early evening sounds nice: Perfect day here. About 200nm east of Norfolk Island. Just about to click 1st 500nm.

Since there is now a little more wind he’s expecting to use the Code Zero some more tomorrow.

It sounds like the weather is quite pleasant up there… hopefully warmer than here!

Somewhere along the line he concluded that since he’s not home I’m getting some rest…
Yeah right! I might have already put most of my clothes on Waimanu, but there is still someone moving into our bedroom after I leave. This should require emptying the room out first! 🙂

One of today’s activities was buying groceries. Apparently we still need to eat food. Who knew, right?

I have already sent several packets of coloured pencils ahead on Waimanu for sharing with kids in the outer islands, and Phil has sorted a few pairs of reading glasses* for folks who might feel unable to contribute to family productivity as their eyesight changes with age, so I popped in to Warehouse Stationery to look for some pencil sharpeners and pencil cases.

It was a wonderful surprise to find them as clearance items.
Taking what I required to the counter the chap there didn’t just make conversation- he wanted to know what I was going to do with half a dozen of each. He knows my kids are too old to need them.

He seemed delighted when I said where and why I was taking them with me and made me wait for a few minutes while he checked something out the back.

Returning, he gave me a good bundle of school exercise books* to add to our supplies and simply asked for a possible photo of where they went so he can share it with his business associates.

School exercise books, sharpeners, pencilcases
Some simple school supplies

I’ve been really encouraged by such positive responses when people ask where we are going and what we might do there. It’s lovely, and so much more positive than being asked Why?

Anyway, time to sleep, plenty of packing and moving to do tomorrow! 🙂

 

*Thank you, thank you, thank you to the folks who have contributed in such wonderful ways. You know who you are!

Where did the wind go?

Received this bonus message from Phil last night:

Nice day. Very nice sunset. Had Code Zero up for short time. Going nicely. catch u tomorrow. LOVE YOU


And midday message today:

S294202 E1721316 COG350T SOG5 Sailing after 21 hours motoring. Beans n onions for lunch. Pink Floyd on. LOVE YOU

I’ll put the coordinates on the map when I’m back on the computer- currently posting from my phone. Don’t you love technology when it works well?

There can’t have been much wind if he was motoring yesterday.

I received a message this morning with course instructions for making the most of the next weather phase, and it looks like nice sailing conditions! Yay!

Speaking of YAY! – didn’t they do well?!

Systems are go?

So today’s collection of satellite texts came in to my email account [insert technical mumbo jumbo here about how systems communicate and what the various options are. NOT!]

Here ya go, in all their raw glory:
1st message
Today, 11:39 a.m.
all well. S314525 E1725905 Log 330 COG345T SOG5/6

2nd message
Today, 11:43 a.m.
ME! Learning. Eating again. Having FUN

3rd message
Today, 11:51 a.m.
noon to noon yesterday 144 Today 1380 Some Rain. Sunny now. SSG fantastic. will try text again tomorrow. love to aii

Now I’m going to take a wild guess and say you might be feeling a little confused.
I’ll attempt a translation which I’m hoping is fairly correct (since I can’t actually ask TheMan right now)

1st message, received today at 11:39 a.m.
* Everything is going well. This is where I am [look at the map, I’ll try to attach an updated link] I’ve travelled 330 nautical miles of the trip so far. I’m heading the right way and I am sailing 5-6 knots [between 9 & 11 k/h]

2nd message, received today at 11:43 a.m. is a reply to one I sent asking what was wrong with the phone [because the nice man on the telephone, calling from The-Ship-Not-Windows-Support said there were issues with it, but Phil probably meant something else] So this one seems to mean
* There’s nothing wrong with the phone, it was me. I’m learning, I’m eating again, I’m having FUN! [This is good, it’s quite normal to not really want to eat when you first leave, especially if it’s stressful]

3rd message, received today at 11:51 a.m.
* Yesterday I sailed 144 nautical miles [267km] and today I’ve done 138nm [255km, I’m guessing that 1380 is a typo and should be 138.] It’s been raining, but it’s sunny now. The thing I built to steer the boat by itself is working really well and I love it. I will have another go at texting tomorrow. Pass my love on to everybody.