Ambrym the Volcano

Vanuatu has been a favourite in our family for many years. We sailed back from here to NZ in the 80s on some yacht delivery trips as well as visiting on cruise ships more recently. The love we have for this place has been passed on to our kids, our daughter having come here in 2007 to live on one of the outer islands for a month doing some building upkeep work on a local school.

On her way to Pentecost, she flew over the volcano island that is Ambrym. Her descriptions of seeing  the contrasted sleeping volcano covered in growth right next to a very active one with lava seeping out came across as somewhat story book but stunning in a wild way (the pilot of the 20 seater plane she was on even did a couple of loops around to really show it off) .

On Friday we anchored on the far western coastline of Ambrym and watched this gracious but raw beauty from a different perspective. 

There was a slight roll for our anchorage of the night in Craig Cove (16°15’20.34S, 167°55’14.64E) where we shared the bay with a small, coastal, inter-island freighter and a barge so we moved on the following day. Our next stop between Ranvetlam and Ranon (16°9’06.42S, 168°6’32.16E) was a lovely flat sea with a black sand setting and a gentle cooling breeze. It made up for the gusty sail from our previous spot.

Sleeping Volcano: One of Ambrym’s – Photo @anita.vdm

Being Social

We anchored in Lameh Bay, Epi (16°35’52.86S, 168°9’51.84E) and went about introducing ourselves to our neighbours for the night.

It wasn’t long until we were sipping wine with our new Canadian friends.

Today also marked the first day Jenny went for a swim. She doesn’t swim in NZ (too cold for her liking) but swimming in the tropics certainly has its appeal. Just be aware that it is not necessarily refreshing, often feeling more like jumping into a tepid bath.

We had dinner back at home (onboard Waimanu) and it was quite the eclectic mix. Black beans in a mole poblano sauce with fried onions (Phil will have fried onions in absolutely everything savoury if at all possible) and local “beans”. These “beans” grow on a plant that has flowers similar to climbing beans but the vegetable is more like a cucumber or zucchini (it smells like cucumber).

Still no internet connection so here is a photo from our Efate exploration.

Local’s swimming spot

Heading North

From Port Havannah, Efate we have been heading north, island hopping as we go. Internet is basically non-existent (so no photos yet) and we have been texting the Kids when we find cell reception.

While NZ is battling temperatures of 4 degrees (in the northern North Island!! So much for sub-tropical), we have been trying to adjust to temperatures of high 20s at only 0700. Needless to say at least one offspring is jealous…

Sulua Bay, Emae Island was next up where we hoped a breeze will cool us. We had a fantastic sail up with a steady 20-25 knots over the starboard quarter but accompanied by quite a large swell.

And now we are sitting at anchor, wind humming in the rig with Phil ashore looking for locals to talk to (he just loves people!).

 

Sounds of an Evening

Sunset

After exploring the island of Efate, we were ready to discover the coastline from another perspective. So off we went to Esema Bay, Port Havannah.

We dropped anchor at 1715 and watched the sun go down while listening to the sounds of roosters, song birds, and quiet chatter coming from neighbouring yachts.

A new business opportunity was discovered the next day. Moving moorings! Once upon a time, many moons ago, Jenny and the kids sailed across Kawau Bay to Mansion House. At the conclusion of a day exploring the gardens, we attempted to pick up the anchor and instead discovered the majority of a waterlogged pine tree coming up with it. It was rather a mission involved sailing backwards (the engine had cut out and wouldn’t restart. Don’t worry, it is all fixed now), a few shaky moments, and a lot of cheering from other yachties. Back in Esema Bay, we went to look at a huge ketch that Cyclone Pam had brought ashore. When it was time to leave we got our anchor part way up and figured there was a tree on it. Now quite experienced at this, we slowly dragged it towards our anchorage, hoping we wouldn’t need a diver in the morning. Trying again it let go……leaving a very encrusted mooring buoy in our wake!

Roadtripping Efate

 

Mele Bay

Friday was spent visiting the neighbouring ship, Pacific Hope. As part of the Mercy Ships, she works in the Islands performing minor eye and dental operations with a major outcome (removing cataracts is a small operation but when you’re basically blind, it is life changing). The work they do is both awe inspiring and fantastic but a great reality check.

One of Pacific Hope’s operating theaters

Once all of the inter-island permits and customs regulations were cleared up plus Vanuatu sim cards purchased,  Phil decided it would be a fantastic idea to hire a car for the day and explore the island of Efate (Port Vila is located on this island).

Roadtrip!

By 0830, it was already sweating hot. Co-ordinated pink was Jenny’s colour of the day dressed as unintentionally touristy as possible as the remedy was still being made by a lovely local lady.

Enjoying a cool breeze

Having been a French territory, Vanuatu still drives on the right-hand side of the road (as Kiwis, we’re used to driving on the left). While Phil has lots of experience at driving on both sides having spent eight months living in a camper van and driving around mainland Europe in the ’90s, it has been some time since he had the practice. This meant Jenny regularly felt like the ditch was just a little too close for comfort.

Coral backroads

Exploring coral backroads and enjoying stunning views, we had lunch at Le Life Resort (on the opposite side of the island to Port Vila) and found the Blue Lagoon that afternoon. If only we had discovered it earlier in the day!

Blue Lagoon

Temping as it was to go for a swim, it was getting rather late and being a lot closer to the equator than NZ, dusk was looming so home we headed.

View from our place (with Pacific Hope in the distance)

Internet Means Photos

An inside look into a solo ocean crossing

 

Ocean Sailing
Ocean Sailing

 

Best Sails
Best Sails

 

Gull-Winging It
Gull-Winging It

 

Crew
Crew at work (self steering gear)

 

Salty Selfie
Salty Selfie

 

Land Ahoy!
Land Ahoy!

 

Flags up in Vila
Flags up in Vila

 

  • All photos copyright Phil van der Mespel

Double Trouble Has Arrived

Jenny spent the last few days running around, doing lots of errands and last minute dashes to collect the odd assortment of items one forgets one uses on a day-to-day basis unless one is suddenly without them.

With a last dinner had(Indian takeaways: something not quite so common in Vanuatu…), a bag full of said assorted practical goods, and a smile that lit up more than just a room, she was off.

Of course despite the flight being so late at night (2335 or 11.35pm) it was running on true “Island Time” but this took a bit of pressure off when most of the extra half an hour was spent explaining to the check in staff at the airport just why she was going to be up there for more than 30 days (Kiwis autmatically get 30 days to be in Vanuatu but to stay longer need an extension). Hearing of the adventures to be had, the ladies on the counter all got rather excited and made the process pleasantly smooth (although somewhat delayed). It did mean she got a seat in the second row of the plane.

Meanwhile, fit to bursting with excitement, Phil headed ashore to speak to a local taxi driver and organise for someone to be waiting at the airport with Jenny’s name on a sign despite it being 0215 (2.15am) when she would eventually touchdown.

He was so excited that neither fell asleep until 0430 (4.30am) for all the catching up to be had.

 

Today was a day of organising an extended tourism visa for Jenny, more catching up, lunch at Beef House, back to customs with passport in hand (necessary items that get forgotten when one has only had a tiny bit of sleep), more chatting, and giggling at each other while making the most of the WiFi at Beef House to send updates home.

 

 

Now where did I put that thing?

Friday 1:49 p.m.
Anti Malarial taken! They were with the new plastic boxes. Go Figure. Loving this!

Friday 2:25 p.m.
Also maybe 100mm of S/S 20mm dia tube to make spacers. WW Sheetmetals or sim. Having FUN.

Saturday 11:56 a.m.
S223538 E1681885 COG000T SOG4/5 LOG1010nm Flights are good. S/S tube can be 25mm dia. Motored all night just got sail out now. You been busy! Loads of music!

I’ve been asking Phil to take his first anti-malarial tablet but had no response about it… I should have realised it was because he hadn’t found them yet 🙂

Gear awaiting storage in Waimanu
Gear yet to be stowed – 2015 trip

By the time he left a week ago the gear for this trip was well and truly stowed, unlike this from  a couple of years ago. But there was no less stuff aboard, so you see why the anti-malarials weren’t easy to find.

Looking at the latest update he has 540km or 290 nautical miles to go

When you’re on a boat there are things you need to fix, like you need to change a lightbulb etc at home, but you also figure out small improvements to things you are using all the time. Usually we are sailing around parts of the Northland coastline and the Hauraki Gulf, so it is relatively easy to pick up anything you need. Popping down to the shop isn’t as effective when you’re 500 miles from land, which means I’m now gathering a list of extras to fit into my luggage before Tuesday.

Yes Tuesday! I’ll be flying out around midnight on Tuesday/Wednesday. Wow… that’s soon!!! Anita has booked my tickets and I’m now sorting those little bits and pieces to take up.

When is an apple not an apple?

Argh!

Trying to compare mobile plans in Vanuatu: TVL vs Digicel

It’s like Apples vs What-mood-is-your-elephant-dancing to?

Ah… I dunno… pass… I’ll have the sports, no the arts question please!

So does anyone have a good website for comparing mobile phone plans in a specific country? I’d love to hear it if you do.

 

In other news: Phil is now north east of Norfolk, the weather is cooperating and he’s having a fine time.

I’m imagining that the inside of Waimanu will be looking similar to this picture from Phil’s around the North Island sail, although probably on the other tack

I’m certainly starting to envy the warmth I’m certain he’s experiencing that we aren’t 🙂

Has anyone told you that you are wonderful people?

By midday today Phil was enjoying some sailing after 21 hours motoring.
Then he added to the picture with letting us know the menu: Beans ‘n onions for lunch. Accompanied by Pink Floyd on the stereo.

Early evening sounds nice: Perfect day here. About 200nm east of Norfolk Island. Just about to click 1st 500nm.

Since there is now a little more wind he’s expecting to use the Code Zero some more tomorrow.

It sounds like the weather is quite pleasant up there… hopefully warmer than here!

Somewhere along the line he concluded that since he’s not home I’m getting some rest…
Yeah right! I might have already put most of my clothes on Waimanu, but there is still someone moving into our bedroom after I leave. This should require emptying the room out first! 🙂

One of today’s activities was buying groceries. Apparently we still need to eat food. Who knew, right?

I have already sent several packets of coloured pencils ahead on Waimanu for sharing with kids in the outer islands, and Phil has sorted a few pairs of reading glasses* for folks who might feel unable to contribute to family productivity as their eyesight changes with age, so I popped in to Warehouse Stationery to look for some pencil sharpeners and pencil cases.

It was a wonderful surprise to find them as clearance items.
Taking what I required to the counter the chap there didn’t just make conversation- he wanted to know what I was going to do with half a dozen of each. He knows my kids are too old to need them.

He seemed delighted when I said where and why I was taking them with me and made me wait for a few minutes while he checked something out the back.

Returning, he gave me a good bundle of school exercise books* to add to our supplies and simply asked for a possible photo of where they went so he can share it with his business associates.

School exercise books, sharpeners, pencilcases
Some simple school supplies

I’ve been really encouraged by such positive responses when people ask where we are going and what we might do there. It’s lovely, and so much more positive than being asked Why?

Anyway, time to sleep, plenty of packing and moving to do tomorrow! 🙂

 

*Thank you, thank you, thank you to the folks who have contributed in such wonderful ways. You know who you are!