Hidden Yachtie Havens

Once you get into the Islands, you discover lots of little spots that only locals and yachties get to. These are gorgeous wee gems with a laid back culture that offer laughs and new friends, a slice of home (sometimes) and a good bit of humour.

We found this latest one at Asanvari, a small bay at the bottom of the island of Maewo. There is a nice little waterfall in one corner with a part time bar that is open when there are no village occasions happening and enough yachts in the bay (just your normal opening hours). A lovely fresh water wash shower was had after enjoying a stunning wind-less day.

Jenny still had the dregs of a headache (it can take awhile to adjust to a different set of climate and weather patterns and the heat is getting to her a little bit, although she’s nearly acclimatised). Because of this we didn’t attend the birthday party of a local ashore that our neighbouring Norwegians had invited us. However, we could hear the happenings from home and wondered what the other visiting yachites would be thinking of the hymn singing that was happening (quite a normal part of a birthday party up here) along with four versus of the Happy Birthday song that were each sung in a slightly different tune.

Local Village – Photo @anita.vdm

Yummy Rain

We sailed from Home Bay up to Waterfall Village on our next leg and boy did it rain!

It is currently what is known as the “Dry Season” at this time of year although perhaps a more apt name would be the more-common-to-have-few-cyclones season. (Dry Season is NZ winter, traversing April through to October while Wet Season, or Hurricane Season, or Cyclone Season usually happens from November to March, usually being the operative word) It was nice to have a bit of a cool down, though, as even when you are jumping in for a swim the water tends to be a lukewarm temperature. Not only refreshing, it also topped up our water tank with Phil emptying two full 10 litre water buckets just from what we collected using our sun awning. There is nothing quite like fresh rain water.

We also headed ashore to have a bit of an explore, walking up to the Ranwadi school. Ranwadi takes students right the way through, from 5 years old to 18 years old. For the local villages, it can be a bit of a walk (depending on how far away the students live) but it also has dorms for both boys and girls, catering to those who are just a bit too far away. When Anita came up here in 2007/2008 it was their summer holidays so she and her friends lived on site while working on upkeep and maintenance jobs. It is a special place.

A Year 13 student (17 or 18 years old and in his last year of school before he becomes University/tertiary/collage age) did a good job showing us around as the staff were in a meeting.

The next day we visited the Waterfall Village where we tracked down a local girl Anita used to spend a lot of time with while here and wrote letters to for a number of years. She now has her own girl pikinini (child) who is a year old.

Jenny had a serious headache by this afternoon so we watched the UK version of the movie Death at a Funeral to have a good laugh.

Ranwadi Rain – Photo @anita.vdm

Trade Winds

Land Diving – Photo @anita.vdm

The crossing from Ambrym to Pentecost was a bit wild with guusts of up to 35kts. Just a little windier than anticipated… We spent the night anchored in Home Bay on the southern end of the island. This was also the spot cruise shops anchor off and home of the seasonal and infamous Land Diving (the original bungee jump).

Phil has also been learning how to trade, swapping a big bunch of small eating bananas (they taste much better than the ones in NZ) and four huge pampelmouss (grapefruit) for an old tee shirt and a pair of trousers.

Home Bay, Pentecost – Photo @anita.vdm

Ambrym the Volcano

Vanuatu has been a favourite in our family for many years. We sailed back from here to NZ in the 80s on some yacht delivery trips as well as visiting on cruise ships more recently. The love we have for this place has been passed on to our kids, our daughter having come here in 2007 to live on one of the outer islands for a month doing some building upkeep work on a local school.

On her way to Pentecost, she flew over the volcano island that is Ambrym. Her descriptions of seeing  the contrasted sleeping volcano covered in growth right next to a very active one with lava seeping out came across as somewhat story book but stunning in a wild way (the pilot of the 20 seater plane she was on even did a couple of loops around to really show it off) .

On Friday we anchored on the far western coastline of Ambrym and watched this gracious but raw beauty from a different perspective. 

There was a slight roll for our anchorage of the night in Craig Cove (16°15’20.34S, 167°55’14.64E) where we shared the bay with a small, coastal, inter-island freighter and a barge so we moved on the following day. Our next stop between Ranvetlam and Ranon (16°9’06.42S, 168°6’32.16E) was a lovely flat sea with a black sand setting and a gentle cooling breeze. It made up for the gusty sail from our previous spot.

Sleeping Volcano: One of Ambrym’s – Photo @anita.vdm

Being Social

We anchored in Lameh Bay, Epi (16°35’52.86S, 168°9’51.84E) and went about introducing ourselves to our neighbours for the night.

It wasn’t long until we were sipping wine with our new Canadian friends.

Today also marked the first day Jenny went for a swim. She doesn’t swim in NZ (too cold for her liking) but swimming in the tropics certainly has its appeal. Just be aware that it is not necessarily refreshing, often feeling more like jumping into a tepid bath.

We had dinner back at home (onboard Waimanu) and it was quite the eclectic mix. Black beans in a mole poblano sauce with fried onions (Phil will have fried onions in absolutely everything savoury if at all possible) and local “beans”. These “beans” grow on a plant that has flowers similar to climbing beans but the vegetable is more like a cucumber or zucchini (it smells like cucumber).

Still no internet connection so here is a photo from our Efate exploration.

Local’s swimming spot

Heading North

From Port Havannah, Efate we have been heading north, island hopping as we go. Internet is basically non-existent (so no photos yet) and we have been texting the Kids when we find cell reception.

While NZ is battling temperatures of 4 degrees (in the northern North Island!! So much for sub-tropical), we have been trying to adjust to temperatures of high 20s at only 0700. Needless to say at least one offspring is jealous…

Sulua Bay, Emae Island was next up where we hoped a breeze will cool us. We had a fantastic sail up with a steady 20-25 knots over the starboard quarter but accompanied by quite a large swell.

And now we are sitting at anchor, wind humming in the rig with Phil ashore looking for locals to talk to (he just loves people!).

 

Internet Means Photos

An inside look into a solo ocean crossing

 

Ocean Sailing
Ocean Sailing

 

Best Sails
Best Sails

 

Gull-Winging It
Gull-Winging It

 

Crew
Crew at work (self steering gear)

 

Salty Selfie
Salty Selfie

 

Land Ahoy!
Land Ahoy!

 

Flags up in Vila
Flags up in Vila

 

  • All photos copyright Phil van der Mespel

Double Trouble Has Arrived

Jenny spent the last few days running around, doing lots of errands and last minute dashes to collect the odd assortment of items one forgets one uses on a day-to-day basis unless one is suddenly without them.

With a last dinner had(Indian takeaways: something not quite so common in Vanuatu…), a bag full of said assorted practical goods, and a smile that lit up more than just a room, she was off.

Of course despite the flight being so late at night (2335 or 11.35pm) it was running on true “Island Time” but this took a bit of pressure off when most of the extra half an hour was spent explaining to the check in staff at the airport just why she was going to be up there for more than 30 days (Kiwis autmatically get 30 days to be in Vanuatu but to stay longer need an extension). Hearing of the adventures to be had, the ladies on the counter all got rather excited and made the process pleasantly smooth (although somewhat delayed). It did mean she got a seat in the second row of the plane.

Meanwhile, fit to bursting with excitement, Phil headed ashore to speak to a local taxi driver and organise for someone to be waiting at the airport with Jenny’s name on a sign despite it being 0215 (2.15am) when she would eventually touchdown.

He was so excited that neither fell asleep until 0430 (4.30am) for all the catching up to be had.

 

Today was a day of organising an extended tourism visa for Jenny, more catching up, lunch at Beef House, back to customs with passport in hand (necessary items that get forgotten when one has only had a tiny bit of sleep), more chatting, and giggling at each other while making the most of the WiFi at Beef House to send updates home.

 

 

Now where did I put that thing?

Friday 1:49 p.m.
Anti Malarial taken! They were with the new plastic boxes. Go Figure. Loving this!

Friday 2:25 p.m.
Also maybe 100mm of S/S 20mm dia tube to make spacers. WW Sheetmetals or sim. Having FUN.

Saturday 11:56 a.m.
S223538 E1681885 COG000T SOG4/5 LOG1010nm Flights are good. S/S tube can be 25mm dia. Motored all night just got sail out now. You been busy! Loads of music!

I’ve been asking Phil to take his first anti-malarial tablet but had no response about it… I should have realised it was because he hadn’t found them yet 🙂

Gear awaiting storage in Waimanu
Gear yet to be stowed – 2015 trip

By the time he left a week ago the gear for this trip was well and truly stowed, unlike this from  a couple of years ago. But there was no less stuff aboard, so you see why the anti-malarials weren’t easy to find.

Looking at the latest update he has 540km or 290 nautical miles to go

When you’re on a boat there are things you need to fix, like you need to change a lightbulb etc at home, but you also figure out small improvements to things you are using all the time. Usually we are sailing around parts of the Northland coastline and the Hauraki Gulf, so it is relatively easy to pick up anything you need. Popping down to the shop isn’t as effective when you’re 500 miles from land, which means I’m now gathering a list of extras to fit into my luggage before Tuesday.

Yes Tuesday! I’ll be flying out around midnight on Tuesday/Wednesday. Wow… that’s soon!!! Anita has booked my tickets and I’m now sorting those little bits and pieces to take up.

When is an apple not an apple?

Argh!

Trying to compare mobile plans in Vanuatu: TVL vs Digicel

It’s like Apples vs What-mood-is-your-elephant-dancing to?

Ah… I dunno… pass… I’ll have the sports, no the arts question please!

So does anyone have a good website for comparing mobile phone plans in a specific country? I’d love to hear it if you do.

 

In other news: Phil is now north east of Norfolk, the weather is cooperating and he’s having a fine time.

I’m imagining that the inside of Waimanu will be looking similar to this picture from Phil’s around the North Island sail, although probably on the other tack

I’m certainly starting to envy the warmth I’m certain he’s experiencing that we aren’t 🙂